Shanghai Fashion Week Shows Independent Designers Rethinking Their Business Models

China’s independent designers used this year’s Shanghai Fashion Week to rethink the business models that built their brands. The Spring/Summer 2027 season ran from October 8 to 16, opening with homegrown label Hemu and its Silk Road collection. Beyond the runway shows, many labels opened standalone stores, tested pop-ups and questioned their reliance on showrooms.

The shift comes as the luxury market faces a sluggish recovery in China, with consumers growing more selective. For emerging labels, creative recognition is now only part of the equation. They must also turn attention into sales and build repeat business.

Designing for Everyday Life

Collections leaned toward wearable pieces rather than occasion dressing. Pronounce marked its 10th anniversary with a womenswear line that reworked traditional Chinese dress proportions for contemporary wardrobes. Shushu/Tong and Xu Zhi paired romantic details with denim and outerwear. RuiBuilt founder Rui Zhou said the brand has added everyday items such as jeans and lightweight jackets after learning what retailers want.

Taking Control of Sales

Brands are also pursuing direct customer relationships. Samuel Guì Yang opened its first global store on Julu Road, while Markgong launched a flagship in IAMP Mall and Ruohan prepares a Hunan Road store. RuiBuilt ran a four-day pop-up from October 11 to 14.

Wholesale is changing too. Consultant Cherrie Ying noted that established labels can invite known buyers directly and negotiate budgets and deliveries themselves. Showrooms still help smaller teams, but brands are becoming more selective about using them.