Moschino’s New Designers Win Praise With Bold Runway Debut

Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo, the design duo who left their own label Sunnei last September, unveiled their first collection for Moschino during Milan Fashion Week, and early reactions suggest they’ve made a striking start. Held on the roof of the Unipol Dome, the show reimagined a busy city street, with everyday people walking alongside professional models dressed in vivid, exaggerated Moschino looks.

A House Built on Satire, Reimagined

Moschino has long been known for its playful, trompe l’oeil aesthetic since Franco Moschino founded it in 1983. Rather than leaning on the brand’s archive or following past creative directors, Messina and Rizzo said they studied the house’s history closely but aimed to shape “a Moschino of the future.” The debut collection leaned into primary colors, oversized panniers, and dramatic silhouettes, continuing the conceptual flair the pair were known for at Sunnei, while pushing their clothing designs further than before.

Industry Insiders Respond Positively

Reactions from editors, stylists, and buyers were largely enthusiastic. Vogue Italia’s Francesca Ragazzi called the show “phenomenal,” while stylist Miyako Bellizzi said she felt an emotional response to the collection’s texture and movement. Buyer Manuel Marelli noted the show felt “fresh” and more cohesive than prior seasons. Former Moschino CEO Marco Gobbetti praised the designers’ potential to elevate the brand into a cultural platform.

The debut arrives at a critical moment for parent company Aeffe, which disclosed insolvency earlier this year and secured a €115 million rescue pledge from the Ferretti family. With significant commercial pressure ahead, Messina and Rizzo’s creative vision will need to translate into sales — but as Gobbetti noted, this was only their first collection, developed in just two months, with much more still to come.