Fendi Spring 2027 Brings Disco Sensuality to Milan

Maria Grazia Chiuri turned to lingerie, slipdresses and lace rompers for Fendi’s Spring 2027 ready-to-wear show at Milan Fashion Week, injecting a sensual, disco-tinged energy into the Roman house. The bra-as-top look, already spotted at Prada earlier in the week, resurfaced here, glimpsed through the show’s mirrored glass set. Chiuri drew on music from Italian star Raffaella Carrà, along with head scarves, fringed bags and fur tippets, to channel a 1970s spirit throughout the collection.

A Set That Divided Attention

The mirrored staging, inspired by artist Luciano Fabro’s “Mirror Cube,” according to the brand’s release, left guests catching reflections of themselves rather than clear views of the flowing, filmy garments. Despite the visual distraction, the craftsmanship on display — silks, intarsias and embroidery — stood out among fashion insiders in attendance. An E.E. Cummings-inspired phrase greeted guests before the show, setting a romantic, bodily tone for what followed.

Chiuri’s Take on Fashion’s Focus

Speaking before the show, Chiuri explained that Fendi’s fur heritage inspired the season’s light, gossamer silhouettes, tying the material to ideas of sensuality and closeness to the body. She also used the moment to comment on the industry’s current preoccupations, suggesting fashion today leans too heavily on branding alone. Her second Fendi ready-to-wear outing showed a looser, more playful hand than her debut, with cut-up tuxedo shirts reworked into harness tops and cutout dresses replacing structured silhouettes.

Black remained the dominant color throughout, even as the mood turned toward fun. With Fendi’s Karl Lagerfeld-designed “FF” logo standing for “Fun Fur,” Chiuri’s newly sensual direction may be paving the way for more playful collections ahead.