Chanel Couture: Matthieu Blazy’s Feather-Driven Spring Debut

Matthieu Blazy’s debut collection for Chanel’s haute couture line proved an unqualified triumph, showcasing experimental craftsmanship and poetic elegance at the Grand Palais in Paris. Presented on a fantastical set of oversized pink and red mushrooms set against candy pink willow trees, the show attracted fashion’s biggest names including Dua Lipa, Tilda Swinton, Penelope Cruz, and Nicole Kidman.

Reimagining the Iconic Chanel Suit

Blazy opened the show with a series of refined Chanel suits constructed from exceptionally fine, semi-sheer mousseline that appeared to float down the runway. The designer courageously transformed classic tweed and bouclé silhouettes into the lightest basket weave, gradually introducing denser embroidery and razored feathers to create opacity. Each suit demonstrated meticulous craftsmanship while maintaining the House’s signature elegance. Matching transparent bags complemented many looks, serving as what Blazy described as a “palimpsest” exposing the symbolic interior life of Chanel’s iconic design.

Feathered Transformation into Fantasy

As the collection progressed, Blazy’s cast gradually transformed into birds of paradise through intensive featherwork by the house’s partner atelier Lemarié. The designer created dense feather depths that mimicked wool or tweed, while microscopically cut patterns resembled ravens and magpies. Modern Greek mythological goddesses emerged as patchworks of feathers in what critics dubbed “crested cockatoo couture.”

In a signature visual pun, Blazy also sent models down the runway in sheer light blue chiffon jeans, continuing his playful approach to material experimentation. His elongated proportions, unexpected button placements, and feather embellishments transformed classical tailoring into fresh, contemporary pieces.

At the finale, the designer took a well-deserved bow to thunderous applause, cementing his position as a visionary force for the storied fashion house.