Chinese fashion label Icicle has named Sabato De Sarno as its new creative director, marking a major step in the brand’s push to become a global player. The announcement comes five months after Kering, the French luxury conglomerate, took a minority stake in Icicle. De Sarno will oversee women’s and men’s ready-to-wear, accessories, and eyewear, with his debut collection set for the fall 2027 season.
From Gucci to Icicle
De Sarno had been without a house since exiting Gucci in February 2025 after a two-year run defined by a minimalist aesthetic shift. Born near Naples in 1983, he built his career at Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, and Valentino before landing the top job at Gucci. At Icicle, Bénédicte Laloux will continue as design director of the women’s show collection, working under De Sarno, while the brand stayed quiet on whether menswear atelier director Mark van Beek will remain.
Founded in Shanghai in 1997 by Ye Shouzeng and Shawna Tao, Icicle runs more than 200 stores across China and is known for eco-conscious, minimalist designs built around natural fibers. The brand joined the official Paris Fashion Week calendar last year as part of its wholesale expansion.
Kering’s Global Bet
Kering’s investment in April launched House of Wonders, a platform aimed at emerging luxury markets beyond Paris and Milan. Kering’s chief strategy officer, Joel Hazan, praised Icicle’s resilience in China’s soft luxury market and framed the partnership as a chance to back brands from outside traditional fashion capitals. Icicle is also growing domestically, having opened a garden store near Hangzhou’s West Lake, with plans for a new lifestyle retail concept, Icicle Market, in 2027.