Size inclusivity in fashion declined again this season, according to the Vogue Business Spring/Summer 2027 report, as designers Ester Manas, Sinéad O’Dwyer and Karoline Vitto warned the industry is moving backward. In London, plus-size looks fell to 0.5% from 0.8%, mid-size looks dropped to 3.6% from 6.5%, and straight-size looks rose to 95.9%.
Paris Gains Rest on One Brand
Paris saw small improvements, largely because Ester Manas, co-led by Balthazar Delepierre, returned to the runway after a two-year break. Its show featured 42.4% mid-size and 36.4% plus-size looks. Citywide, plus-size looks rose to 0.5% from 0.1%, yet straight-size looks still made up 97.5%. London’s slide coincided with O’Dwyer showing early at the V&A in July and Vitto presenting in Rio in April.
Wholesale Remains a Barrier
The designers say they do more than cast diverse models: they design, produce and sell extended sizes. Still, traditional retail routes are difficult. O’Dwyer said some stores buy larger sizes but fail to market them, while Vitto relies on direct-to-consumer sales and a few trusted boutiques. Manas criticised brands that treat inclusivity as a one-off publicity stunt, often by casting famous curve models.
They also objected to garments padded or constructed to imitate curves on very slim models, which Vitto described as dictating which proportions are acceptable.
A Call for Funding and Education
O’Dwyer proposed grants to help small brands develop a second sample size, calling money the main obstacle. Manas urged schools to move beyond EU 36 mannequins so students learn to design for different bodies, while Vitto warned of unknown consequences for teenage girls watching ever-smaller runways. Despite the frustrations, all three described loyal customers who return season after season, and they hope size will eventually stop being a talking point.