Timeless icons: the hottest watch debuts from Watches and Wonders 2025

Behind the scenes at this year’s Watches And Wonders Geneva—the most significant trade show for luxury watches—the clock was ticking loudly to get new releases on ships before  President Donald Trump’s proposed taxes deadline on April 9.

Luxury Watchmaking Shines Through Tariff Tensions

Even with the looming shadow of trade tariffs—31% on Swiss watches and 20% on EU-made timepieces—the world of haute horology didn’t flinch. Enthusiasts and collectors alike gathered with unshaken excitement at Watches and Wonders 2025, where the latest designs dazzled and innovation reigned supreme.

From Rolex’s first new collection in over a decade to the most accurate Spring Drive movement ever created, here are the releases that turned heads and made history.

Also read: The Patek Philippe 1526: the first of its kind—and unlike any other

Rolex Land-Dweller: A Rugged Evolution in Elegance

The buzz began before the event even started, thanks to an apparent leak on Roger Federer’s Instagram. The Land-Dweller is Rolex’s first entirely new collection since 2012’s Sky-Dweller, drawing inspiration from the Sea-Dweller and the vintage Oysterquartz.

Key highlights include:

• Integrated Jubilee bracelet for a sleeker fit
• Honeycomb-patterned dial
• Debut of the Caliber 7135 movement, featuring the innovative Dynapulse escapement

The Land-Dweller comes in both 36mm and 40mm sizes and various materials, from stainless steel to platinum.

Vitals

• Case: Everose gold, stainless steel, white gold, platinum
• Diameter: 36mm & 40mm
• Power Reserve: 66 hours
• Price: $13,900 to $116,900

Also from Rolex: a new 1908 in yellow gold, a turquoise-dial Daytona, and a GMT-Master II with a tiger iron dial.

Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P: Simplicity in Platinum

Patek Philippe may be known for grand complications, but this year it reminded the world that minimalism, when executed perfectly, can be just as breathtaking. The new Calatrava 6196P exudes elegance with a salmon dial, sleek black markers, and a subtle seconds subdial at 6 o’clock.

Other Patek standouts included:

• A perpetual calendar in the Twenty-4 collection with a striking green dial
• A new Calatrava Travel Time in white gold
• A refined 40mm Cubitus model

Vitals

• Case: Platinum
• Width: 38mm
• Power Reserve: 65 hours
• Price: $47,130

Grand Seiko SLGB003: Precision That Redefines the Standard

Grand Seiko made a statement by returning to the essence of watchmaking: accuracy. The SLGB003, powered by the new Spring Drive Caliber 9RB2, achieves jaw-dropping precision of ±20 seconds per year—a remarkable feat that redefines expectations for mechanical watches.

While known for nature-inspired dials, this year’s focus was on technical supremacy.

Vitals

• Case: Titanium
• Diameter: 37mm
• Power Reserve: 72 hours
• Price: $10,900

These 2025 releases prove that even in a world brimming with uncertainty, true craftsmanship always stands the test of time.