The Spring/Summer 2026 men’s season at Paris Fashion Week proved that spectacle doesn’t always translate to success. According to fashion critic Angelo Flaccavento, Julian Klausner’s debut for Dries Van Noten stood out as the season’s winner, demonstrating that restraint can triumph over extravagance.
When Grand Statements Miss the Mark
The week saw numerous brands attempt to make bold impressions with elaborate shows and oversized presentations. However, many of these grand statements risked overwhelming the actual clothing on display. The focus shifted from craftsmanship and design innovation to theatrical production values, leaving audiences questioning whether the fashion itself justified the fanfare.
Klausner’s approach at Dries Van Noten offered a refreshing contrast. Rather than competing with increasingly elaborate stagecraft, the designer allowed the garments to speak for themselves, earning critical acclaim in a season marked by excess.
A Season of Mixed Results
The Paris men’s shows featured presentations from major houses including Saint Laurent, Louis Vuitton, Hermès, and Comme des Garçons. Other notable participants included Rick Owens, Craig Green, Wales Bonner, Jacquemus, and emerging talents like Auralee and Willy Chavarria.
Meanwhile, Jonathan Anderson’s debut at Dior for men generated significant buzz, described as “grunge aristocracy” that served as an appetiser for future collections. Rick Owens continued his exploration of unconventional aesthetics with what was termed a challenge to fashion orthodoxy.
The season’s overarching theme suggests that fashion’s most powerful moments often emerge from clarity and confidence rather than overwhelming spectacle.