Bologna-born designer Luca Magliano is set to join prestigious menswear voices at Pitti Uomo in Florence, presenting his fall 2024 collection alongside designers like Martine Rose and Raf Simons. The 36-year-old, who won the LVMH Karl Lagerfeld Prize last year, has built his genderless label on deconstructing menswear fundamentals with a rebellious, queer spirit since launching in 2018.
Blending Tradition with Innovation
Magliano’s design philosophy thrives in the tension between polished tailoring and slouchy, unfinished silhouettes. His collections feature carefully crafted pieces like new-wave tailoring and deconstructed cashmere, alongside pajama-like cuts and disheveled knitwear. This approach reflects his hometown Bologna’s paradoxical nature—provincial yet industrially significant. Each season showcases his signature hand-crafted details, from artfully draped sweaters to hand-knotted hems.
Strategic Collaborations and Future Growth
The designer’s upcoming Pitti show will unveil collaborations with heritage Italian brands Kiton and Borsalino, representing his vision of modern Made in Italy craftsmanship. “These are two examples of how we’re talking about classics but within bigger realities,” Magliano explains. Both companies exemplify how successful businesses can maintain local roots and principled practices while building global recognition.
Magliano describes the show as both “cinematic” and “nostalgic,” calling it “a very specific conversation with the word classic.” Looking ahead, he aims for measured growth through direct-to-consumer sales rather than wholesale, allowing him to maintain creative control. His 2024 goals include strengthening his presence in the US market while staying true to his craft-first philosophy that has kept his brand relevant and distinctive in contemporary fashion.