Kai Nesselrath has unveiled his first collection as Carven’s creative lead in Paris, drawing on the house’s late 1950s and early 1960s archives. The designer joined in June after almost a decade at Saint Laurent, and he built the collection around precise, sculptural tailoring. Soft, rounded shoulders set it apart from the sharper power silhouettes of his former employer.
A Nod to Carven’s Heritage
The show returned to the Conservatoire National des Arts et Métiers, where predecessor Mark Thomas staged his final presentation. Nesselrath chose it for continuity and wanted the space to feel like a work in progress, almost like scaffolding. Invitations were a green-and-white striped pencil, a historic house code, paired with a card for sketching. Highlights included the opening mini skirt and jacket ensembles, striped pajamas, an apron dress and pencil shaving-shaped earrings.
The soundtrack featured Anna Karina’s voice from Godard’s Alphaville, reading a poem. Nesselrath said the film’s themes of darkness, artificial intelligence and poetry felt relevant to the present day.
Industry Insiders Respond
Buyers and creatives reacted warmly. Guillaume Steinmetz of The Broken Arm called it a smart collection and praised its workwear influences. Printemps’ Angélique Liautaud noted the continuity with Carven’s codes and found the pieces wearable and modern. Jewelry designer Charlotte Chesnais liked the structured yet non-rigid silhouettes and the double bags. Kristin Stoffels of Knack Weekend described the collection as minimalist but still fun, singling out the pearl-embellished shoes.
The debut comes as parent company ICCF Group pushes a revival of the label, which went bankrupt in 2018. Carven has seen several creative changes in recent years, including Louise Trotter’s departure for Bottega Veneta in December 2024. Despite limited resources, Nesselrath’s first outing suggests clear potential for the house.