The 2025 GQ Fashion Awards have crowned Colombian-born French designer Haider Ackermann as Designer of the Year, celebrating his transformative debut as creative director of Tom Ford. Appointed in 2024, Ackermann’s first collection for the storied fashion house captivated the industry with its seductive aesthetic and innovative approach to menswear design.
A Love Affair with Tom Ford
Ackermann’s March debut in Paris proved to be a defining moment in contemporary fashion. Guests were transported into an intimate, dimly lit space reminiscent of Studio 54, where models showcased languid ’80s pinstripe suits, silk robes, and unbuttoned tuxedo shirts layered over tanks. Rather than relying on traditional sexiness, Ackermann let imagination lead, presenting clothes that appeared casually thrown on after a romantic morning. His October sophomore show further solidified his vision, featuring suits that blur the lines between pajamas and formal wear, complete with leather sandals and monogrammed velvet slippers.
Redefining Power and Mystery
Ackermann’s philosophy diverges significantly from his predecessor’s. While Tom Ford championed “power dressing,” Ackermann believes true strength lies in discretion and mystery. He emphasizes that power need not be obvious or armored—style emerges through movement, gesture, and how one carries themselves. This nuanced approach resonates particularly with collaborators like model Kai-Isaiah Jamal, who praises Ackermann’s ability to merge masculinity and femininity seamlessly.
Beyond Ackermann’s triumph, the 2025 awards celebrated exceptional menswear moments: Jonathan Anderson’s audacious Dior debut, Julian Klausner’s serene Dries Van Noten show, and the triumphant return of preppy aesthetics. The awards highlighted how menswear continues evolving, balancing bombastic expression with understated sophistication—a reflection of contemporary style’s exciting direction.