In the Indigenous fashion world, dentalium shells—the long, tubular shells derived from a type of marine mollusk—have become extraordinarily precious. These curved, milky-white shells now command prices that rival or exceed diamonds, with some selling for $50 per shell or hundreds of dollars per pound. Gwich’in jeweler Tania Larsson recently purchased an entire inventory when she found a supplier, recognizing their increasing rarity.
A Rich Cultural Legacy
Indigenous communities across North America have treasured dentalium shells for centuries. Tribes in the Pacific Northwest, including the Kwakwaka’wakw and Nuu-chah-nulth, harvested these shells and used them as adornment on regalia, capes, and jewelry. Through extensive trade networks, the shells spread thousands of miles, reaching the Great Plains and tribes like the Lakota and Ojibwe. Historically, dentaliums served as both decorative elements and currency, with shell ownership signifying wealth and community status.
Contemporary Artists Elevate the Craft
Today’s Indigenous artists—including Jamie Okuma, Keri Ataumbi, and Larsson—are creating breathtaking contemporary designs while honoring traditional values. Okuma recently debuted a full dentalium dress at the 2025 Santa Fe Indian Market, combining the shells with fine jewelry elements like gold and diamonds. These artists treat dentaliums as finite materials, using them intentionally and sparingly. The shells’ rarity, driven partly by climate change and shifting ocean temperatures affecting Dentalium populations, ensures their continued prestige in Native fashion as symbols of cultural preservation and environmental connection.